
<©>2008
Building Screws from Scratch
Created by James Tuxbury
Click on the highlighted words for a picture.
The first thing I do when I am making a screw is to buy some brass stock from Small Parts inc.
usually I get a 12 inch rod.
I make two cuts halfway through the rod for the thickness of the hub
with my hack saw, then make a through cut about an inch
farther up the rod. this leaves me with a rod about 2 inches
long. Then I find the center of the rod as shown in the same picture
and drill through the center of the rod. That is
what I use as the hub .
I also purchase some flat stock usually 3 inch X 12 inch X .65 this is what I cut the blades out of after
drawing on brass the shape of the blades . Diagonial lines are then marked on the side
of the hub where I cut a groove to
insert the Blade into the hub. As shown two blades in cutout
in the hub. The next photo four blades and hub show the shape
of the blades and the hub
with lines drawn to show where the hub should be cut.
I then clamp the hub into a vice and use two nuts to hold it in place.I then try
fitting the blade prior to welding blade in place.
Here comes the fun part. I break out my
acyetalene torch and braze the blades in place. It isn't much harder than
sweating a pipe joint, you just need an
acetylene torch and it is something you just have to learn on your own,
there are numerous sites on the web to guide
you.
Next photo shows blades being curved in a form it is nothing more than a block of wood cut in a
curve and placed in a vice.
The blades bend to the curve very easily. This photo shows the blades
welded on before cleanup and finally the polished blades.
The following links are a
synopsys of the above photos.
Polished blades
hub
Drawing on brass of blades
two blades in cutout in hub
four blades and hub
fitting the blade prior to welding blade
blades being curved in form
Blades welded on before cleanup
Polished blades
Building a stuffing box
The pictures below show how I build a stuffing box, it is nothing more than three brass rods
the outer one is the largest diameter
then two small end pieces inserted one within the other and soldered in place. When I
have completed the model I stuff the box
with automobile wheel bearing grease using a syringe. Then I run the shaft through
and put a collar on the end to hold it in place.
Speed Control Subsystem
LXKAL6 from Tower Hobbies is the speed control I use its mechanical
and really can take a beating. It is a Tamaya device
and the part number is Model SP1198 part#51198
for those who would rather not use Tower. I build it as a subsystem then
I install the whole thing at once.
James Tuxbury
450 So.Old Orchard Ave.
Webster Groves, Missouri 63119
jtuxbury@steeldecknavy.com
Copyright 2008<©>All rights reserved James Tuxbury